New Pomades Taking Up Space In My Drawer

    Things have been a bit on the crazy side between working 6 days a week at the shop and family stuff so I have been kind of putting off a few things, including updates here.

    First of the year I received two packages one from "Clipper Guy" Ivan Zoot which had a sample of ZOOT! Hair pomade. I also received a couple of cans of pomade from the guys at Bona Fide.

    Bona Fide hails from Orange County California which has become a hotbed for cool product (Layrite, Imperial and a few others). Water based pomade gets a lot of grief from fans of pomade becuase people do not call it pomade but a glorified gel. This is a statement that I do not agree with and personally I like water based pomades.

Used Bona Fide

  
    The scent of Bona Fide is a fresh clean scent that is not over powering. Sometimes it is better then an overpowering sweet scent. The texture Bona Fide is smooth and easily malleable unlike some products that have the tendency to be stiff. It is easy to come through and restyle. In my experience it is not a super strong hold, more of a medium hold with a decent shine. the price point is about 12 bucks which is a good price. If you are a barber or a shop owner I think it is worth keeping around if you are looking for an inexpensive water based pomade.

Short cut used ZOOT! Hair pomade

    Ok so I do not have packaging for the ZOOT! Hair pomade (like I said it was a sample), but it was enough of a sample to get a few cuts and styles out of it. This is not a water based pomade but it is not a super heavy pomade that is a pain in the butt to wash out at the end of the week. It has a minty scent but not that tea tree scent that most guys are used to getting in some other products. It has a smooth texture that is easy to use and easy to comb through. It has a lite to medium hold. If you are looking for a pomade to pile high that pomp this is not the best product. I found it works good for slick backs, side parts and just all around clean styling. It seems to have more of a matte finish so it is not s super high shine.


   I have used both of these products on more textures hair and found that Ivan Zoots ZOOT! Hair pomade worked better on textured hair then the Bona Fide did. But in the end you will have to try them out for yourself and see what works the best.

   On a completely seperate not the new "Support Your Local Barber" stickers are available and the shirts will be done soon!! If you are interested in either of these things hit me up!

Cheers,
Frankie The Barber

Speed v. Efficiancy: It All Come In Time

Filling a chair at Covenant Barbershop

    So today I want to talk about an issue that affects everyone in the hair industry (barbers and cosmos) and that is finding the fine line between speed and efficiency. 

    When I got out of barber school I knew one thing and that was to become the barber I wanted to become was going to take time and experience. Unfortunately right out of school it seemed like everywhere I was working was expecting me to be 100% on point but I was either to slow or just not very good yet.

    When I moved back to California the first shop I worked at (I have only worked in a couple of shops since coming back to CA) was a chop shop. The shop only charged $4.50 so to make any money you had to work your ass off!! The guy who was cutting hair next to me would crank out 30+ haircuts in a day. Just because this guy was fast did not mean he was very good.

    I have now been at my current shop almost a year and in the time I have found my speed get better in my haircuts but more importantly the quality of my haircuts have gotten better. Am I as good I would like to be...No. Will the time come where I want to be....Yes.

    When you get out of school and get behind the chair realize that in time the speed will come but it is more important to work on efficiency because being able to do good haircuts or color is what is going to keep customers in your chair. The speed will come in time and you will begin to notice it.

    On a final note....To the bosses, owners, master barbers, be patient with the  new guy behind the chair because you used to be that kid. You never know you may have the next Ivan Zoot behind that chair!!

   

5 Days of Pomade-Day 5: Jan Hella-The Rebel Rouser

 (So when deciding who I wanted to give us there top 5 list I knew that Jan Hella (barber student extraordinaire and in charge of www.theRebelRouser.com). I knew asking him I was not going to get a list but a full blog post, since that is how we roll! I really want to thank everyone who was involved in this, it has been a blast!)

    Since the start of www.TheRebelRouser.com, people from all over the world have asked me "what's your favorite pomade?" Unfortunately, I don't have one! With the wide variety we currently have on the market, as well as up and coming brands, it's hard to pick a favorite. Throughout the duration of blogging, I've learned to make certain pomades work best for me, more-so than the others. So, here's my Top 5 Go-To Pomades:
(In no particular order.)

1) Dax High & Tight Awesome Hold: A lot of people have somewhat turned away from the heavier pomades; me included. So when I tried Dax High & Tight Awesome Hold for the first time, I knew I found my preferred alternative to their strongest pomade- Dax Wave & Groom- which used to be my definite go-to, when I as looking for hold. Being just a kick lighter, a lot more malleable, with a killer Sandalwood scent to boot, Dax High & Tight Awesome Hold is a great addition to anyone's arsenal, and can be found at www.ImperialDax.com

2) Mr. Ducktail: If the name doesn't sound familiar, you probably haven't been doing this for too long. But, no worries, that's what we're here for! Long story short, Mr. Ducktail is an amazing barber from France, that has moved shop to England, and still has cult following, for his barbering & styling skills, as well as his pomade! His grease is a medium weight pomade, that is seemingly lighter than most, but still manages to style amazing pompadours, as seen on his Facebook page. Plus, it smells like a cola, how can you go wrong with that? Available at www.HairgumUSA.com

3) Royal Crown Pomade: One, if not, THEE pomade that keeps Elvis-Pompadour-Enthusiasts in limbo, it's hard to not have a tin or five in hand! With many pomades getting heavier and heavier, light and greasy pomades are being left behind. Think about it folks, if quite possibly Elvis used it, why shouldn't we! Being thicker, with a much more pleasant scent than its readily available counterpart- Royal Crown Hairdressing- Royal Crown Pomade is definitely the better of the two to pick up. Unfortunately, it's not often you will see the pomade next to the hairdressing. So when you come across it, BUY IT!

4) Grant's Golden Brand: Now, I'm not going to get into the whole, "water-based pomades are not grease!!!" Well, no shit. Grease + Water = DUH. But, Grant's has been one brand that doesn't only offer a range of water-based pomades, but amazing customer service. It's hard to go wrong with either of their products. Plus, they keep moving forward, and have more products on the way! Check em out at www.GrantsGoldenBrand.com

5) Tres Flores: As I've mentioned- light and greasy pomades are being left behind, and Tres Flores is one of them! While it leaves some with a bad taste in their mouths, it leaves many with fond memories of their fathers and grandfathers, barbershops, or even sketchy times... You know who you cats are! This stuff is as close to a classic pomade as you're going to get, aside from Royal Crown, of course.) Light, relatively thick, and most definitely greasy, this stuff is definitely worth having on hand, even if you just use it to add shine to a heavier pomade. Should be found at Mexican markets, CVS, or Asian Supermarkets.

Well, folks, I hope you enjoyed this little tidbit of my go-to's. Hopefully, you'll add some of these to your rotation and find some joy in em.
Until the next time,
Pomp Hard!
- Jan

Gotta New Toy- Andis ProFoil Shaver

   Ok so one of the regular tools we are needing as barbers these days is the electric shaver especially for those who who like that bald fade.

    When trying to decide exact what shaver I wanted to get my hands on I started by using my buddy Victors "Norelco" style shaver. It gets a nice clean shave on the head but I always felt I was having to not only put a lot of pressure on the head but kept going over and over the shaved area.

    Before purchasing the Andis shaver I Ivan Zoot (former educator for Andis) how it sells and he told me that at Bonner Brother they pretty much sold out of the shaver.

    When MD Barber came by the shop I asked what he had and he told me he had the Andis ProFoil Shaver so I went a head and grabbed it (avg. $48.00). This is a cordless shaver that holds a good long charge. It cuts using two titanium foils and it also has a slide up trimmer for side burns.

   This is a cordless, lite weight shaver that holds it's charge for a several hours. One of the things I like about the shaver is its shape. The "t-shape" makes it comfortable to use and not bulky. It allows you to work up and down or side to side when doing bald fades or full head shaves.

    I used it the other day when cutting my dads hair and normally I use a straight edge but since I did not have my razor I pulled this shaver out. After mowing it down with #5 blade on my Osters the Andis ProFoil shaver got a super close and clean shave which is what we are always looking for.

   I have one thing that the jury is out on and that is doing full face shaves with it. I have used it on myself and for my personal use it does irritate my skin (that is why I have never owned an electric razor).

For more info hit up Andis.

Barbers and Tattoo artist...Trade cut from the same cloth.

Danny Warner and myself in Fresno,CA.

    I am a barber and have had my license since 2006. I have worked in both Washington and California. My friends are barbers and tattoo artist. The whole time I lived in Washington all I did was work and hang out in tattoo shops, but this weekend there was a light switch that clicked in my head and I realized that we as barbers and tattoo artist are cut from a very similar clothe.

    On Sunday while I was getting tattooed by Danny Warner (Classic Tattoo Studio Grass Valley,Ca) we got to have a great conversation about tattooing, regulation and what it takes to be the best tattoo artist he can be. This seriously got me thinking about what I do as well.

    The barber industry is regulated and when I asked him what he thought of the tattooing industry starting to see regulations being put into place his answer was "I am not afraid of it". Continued by making a snide remark about suppliers who sell tattoo equipment and supplies to people at conventions who are not really tattoo artist.

    Just like the "tattoo artist" who buys his stuff from the smoke shop in shady neighborhoods doing tattoos in his kitchen, there are "barbers" who work out of there garages with out going to school and think that is all there is to it. Just because you own a tattoo machine (it is not called a tattoo gun!) does not make you a tattoo artist. Just because you own a set of clippers does not make you a barber.

    As we continued to talk Danny said on thing that made me "wake up" and it was this..."There are going to be people that are better then me and I have to work to be better then them." What the hell this guy who has been tattooing for 10 years and has a nice looking portfolio oh yeah and is tattooing me is honest about that fact that he know there are people that are better then him, but really plans on being the best out there.

    It was at this moment I realized "Wow, barbers and tattoo artist have a lot of shit in common." Not only do we share a craft that goes back hundreds of years but a trade that takes time to master and yeah there are going to be people that are better then us (whether they work in a shop or there moms garage). It is up to you how you handle your career, trade and craft. Someone better then you, what are you going to do to become better then them.

Cut With Pride sucka!!

    It is all in your hands....literally!! Your tattoo machine, your ink, your clippers, your shears, your razor....It is all in your hands!!

Barbers And The Hot Rod Culture

   Alright VLV 15 is over and again it is another year that I did not get to go but that is not what this is about.This is really about how barbers are becoming as much a part of the hod culture as the tattoo artist. So today I spent some time e-mailing some barbers to get there feedback on this topic.

   I know for myself some of my favorite times are when I am cutting hair at car shows, selling pomades at shows or tattoo shows. When you go to major car show events you will find pomade being sold, barbershops with booths set up cutting hair (always busy).

Luis at Covenant Barbershop

   I know that I had the pleasure to interview Don Hawley quite a few years ago when I was publishing The Undergournd Magazine (before Hawleywoods was a proverbial household name). The last couple of years barbershops around the country have been getting covered by not only tattoo magazines but car magazine.

   Tattooing and barbershop hold the same kind of history and Luis Orozco of Covenant Barbershop in Fresno,Ca. believes that it is "with the rise of more traditional style barbershop". Joe Caccavella from Joe's Barbershop in Chicago says "The entire basis of the Kustom Kulture or “Rock-a-billy” scene is tradition. From the clothes to cars to the hair styles".

Joe Caccavella at Joe's Barbershop

Frankie The Barber

    Working in the barbershop and being a fan of the "rock-a-billy" I know that I do not trust Supercuts or the salon inside the local Wal-Mart with my cut. Joe adds " So with the growing popularity of the whole kustom culture lifestyle it makes perfect sense that traditional barbers are showing up more and more that specialize in vintage/period correct cuts and styles".

    Well I think the point has been made....it is all about tradition. I know that for me as a barber I work really hard and take pride in my craft and I am proud of the history and tradition that comes along with it!

Grant's Golden Brand Pomade

   So every gearhead and greaser is always looking for the perfect pomade and the more I mess with pomades the more I realize there is no such thing as the perfect pomade,it is all based on the person using the pomade.

    So here is the number one question...Is water based pomade a pomade or a gel? I consider it a pomade. Just like there are lite, medium and heavy weight greases there are different water based pomades.

    The most recent one I have found comes from Washington and is called Grant's Golden Brand Pomade. Grant's Pomade has a somewhat clear color with a light scent. So the scent is not over powering. So far the I have not had to use a ton of it in the cuts I have done. This is a good thing depending on how much you need to use.

    For myself I had to use a little more because I had not had a haircut in a few weeks. I used it on someone who is growing there hair back right now and it seem to hold it down pretty well. Today I used it on a young man who had thick,course hair and was wanting to start cutting and styling his hair in a 50's traditional style (thanks MadMen). It seemed to be holding well.

   So what separates Grant's from Layrite, Suavacito or Lucky 13's "Juniors" pomade. It is definitely heavier then the "Juniors" pomade but I am not going to compare it to the others because in the end it is going to be the preference of the of the person using the pomade. I know people who use Layrite and will not use anything else.

   Oh yeah and Grant's also has a limited edition "Putty Pomade" that is water based as well. This may be worth checking out as well.

    I like there pomade and really think that if you prefer water based pomades you should try it out...plus they are a small company. Thanks to Oak Barbershop in Portland,Oregon for turning me on to this pomade.

50 Years means little in Oregon

So this evening courtesy of  "A Barbers Life" blog I found this video that raises the question of our licenses as professionals and what it means to state governments.

So here is the question; "If you are an older gentlemen (this man is 82 and has been working for 50 years) and maybe had forgotten to pay your licensing fees. What should be done....Just have you pay your fees and be done with it, make you retake your practical  for your state just to make sure you are still on point or try to force you to go back to school?"

So I decided to do some research about this story and it is actually a bit disappointing. If this was a mix up on the side of the Oregon Board of Cosmetology and Barbering and the fact that they were not willing to allow this gentleman to pay the back fees and get back to work then that this is not a good thing.

This is a weird position to be in. It is not a black and white issue sometimes, but just judging this story at face value I believe that the State Board should of allowed this man to renew his license and pay all the back fee. More importantly I hope this is not an issue because of his age...remember the man in this story is 82 so did the state board think he was too old to continue working as a barber....I do not know.


To read this story for your self here are the links....lets get some feedback on this story:

82 year old Oregonian man closes barbershop.
Oregon Board of Cosmetology Decides Barbers Fate

Uppercut Deluxe Pomade

So everyone who already follows and is familiar with Hawleywood's Barbershop already knows that they have opened a shop in Sydney, Australia but there is a company based in Australia called Uppercut Deluxe (www.uppercutdeluxe.com). I have only recently found one barbershop that sells there products and that is called Johnny D's Barbershop in Campbell,Ca.

So I blasted them an e-mail and they were kind enough to send me a couple of there products to try out. So they kindly send me a can of Monster Hold, Uppercut Pomade and a sampler of the Uppercut Matte Clay.


So I want to start with the packaging. The tins remind me of the old tins of KIWI Shoe Polish my dad had around the house to polish his boots with. For me this is a cool. I think I figure there is almost 3.5 ounces of pomade in a can.


The Uppercut Deluxe Pomade is a water soluble pomade, similar to Layrite. It is an easy to use, washes right out pomade. Holds well and you can comb back into place if need be..But like Layrite make sure you put it into dry hair.

The second pomade I got to try out was there "Monster Hold". This is a good old fashioned wax pomade. You know the one I am talking about, the one that takes a few days to wash out and leaves stains on your pillowcase then your wife gets mad and takes away your pillowcase. As much of a fan I am of a good water soluble pomade sometimes I like an old fashioned wax and this is what you get in the "Monster Hold".

There are other products that I have not had the chance to use such as there shampoo, conditioner and last time I spoke to someone at Uppercut they are also going to work on a shaving product.

I am a fan of companies that work hard to create a good product and have a great history. This is another company that has given us a good product that is created with the help of barbers.

American Crew, Hawleywoods and ClipperGuy

Normally I do not post a bunch of things about one specific brand but yesterday I went to Cosmoprof and purchased American Crew's fashion / trend book.This is really a neat book to have on a table in your shop.The Book is not only a picture editorial but it has some cool writing about mens culture.

In your purchase you get The Crew, a dvd and full pull out product guide. Get a hold of your local Cosmoprof and order it. Trust me it is a cool book to have around the shop.

Tomorrow night on the season premier of Cafe Racer (www.caferacertv.com). hawleywoods and the great Hot Rod Walt will be on the show, s check it out!!

Now on to Ivan Zoot....zoothair.com — Zoot Hair Awesome Short Hair charitable give back. $.25 cents donated to the American red cross every month for each bottle sold. Nice charitable initiative! The product is hair care and styling product specifically formulated for the needs of short hair.

Tools Video...

So here is a viideo from my good friend Luis at Covenant Barbershop in Fresno,Ca.

Franks Chop Shop and SxSW

So first thing is that i wish I could go to Austin for SxSW one of these days....So much food and so much music...ok just so much cook stuff!!!

Ok if you do not know about Franks Chop Shop in NYC (www.frankschopshop.com) then well you kind of suck because I it is such a rad shop.

So this years SxSW Franks Chop Shop showed up with a trailer sponsered by AXE (crappy product but I can look past it!)...Enjoy the videos

quick update...

  So here is what is going on these days....I am up here in Spokane,Washington and I want to thank all those who have welcomed me home proper like!! I am unfortunately still waiting on the state of Washington to issue me reciprocity so I can get to cutting!!!

  I will probably be having my lovely wife send me down my tools in the next week or so, so if you are in need of a haircut I will be available.

  So since I have been go I have seen several shops open up that were not here before....my friends at Porter's barbershop have gotten to the point where they are appt. only (good job guy's) and I have been chatting up a kid down in Hillsboro,Oregon that will be opening his own shop on April 1st. his name is Travis Henry and his shop is called Henry's Chop Shop Hair Studio. This cat is fresh out of school and we wish him all the luck!!!

  I will be honest I should of just grown a pair of bullocks and did things the way this kid is doing it and the way my boy Luis at Covenant Barbershop did....by there own rules!! When you go to work for yourself it is all on you whether you succeed or fail.....no one else s fault.

  Working in any professional trade whether it is Barbering, Tattooing or really any trade that there are only two options.....work for yourself or someone else. Do you really want to give some other sucker all your hard earned dough or are you willing to step out and control your own future...Truth is if it is not too late for you
it is not too late for me!!

CUT WITH PRIDE

Over night in LA....

So we all know that to make that money I have to hustle over-priced coffee to the masses. So on Monday after I have been up since 5 am I called my wife and told her to get a bag together cause we are blasting out of here....straight to the city of angels. Got a hotel in El Segundo for the night.

First thin first was to grab some dinner so we tracked down the Grill Em All truck (winners of the Food Networks Great Food Truck Race). Had the Molly Hatchet and some fries tossed in truffel oil....Best dinner in a while.

Tuesday and we were up and headed to Santa Monica for breakfast at Ye Olde Kings Head for just some of the best English food in LA. I am not talking about bastardized American versions of English food. This place is legit. The only place I can drink beer with my breakfast and not feel guilty or like a drunk Irishman!!

The rest of the day was just spent hanging out....found multiple Floyd's Barbershops, Rudy's on Melrose, Shorty's Barbershop found on Highland ( I think that is where it was). So many cool barbershops through out Los Angeles.

What is the point of this you ask...food, barbershops...etc. The point is to get out there explore what is going on and if there is nothing around that interest you blast away for little while and see what the rest of the world is doing. Do not eat at the same restaurant they have where you live meet some locals explore other neighborhoods....trust me you will like what you find!!

Cheers
Frankie

Barber Versus Stylist

So today Ivan Zoot posted a link to an article by a gentleman named Carlos Rogers from Philadelphia. (Barber v. Stylist article....please read) .

So as I sat and read the article I actually became kind of annoyed because many traditional barbers that are out there- there are just as many barbers that are changing things. Bringing traditional barbering in with new skills and new styles.

Even us simple minded slack jaw barbers know we need to know what is going on so we can make a living. (please note the sarcasm!!)

I am a barber...proud of my trade and we as barbers proudly embody. This gentleman say he started in the barbershop then why the cheap shot?

Thank you and good night!!

Soccer and Barbers...not a bad combo

Tonight is more video content then anything. Just some cool stuff to watch that I have found...especially since I am a soccer fan....so enjoy!!

Lets start with a shop called TURNSTYLES located in Oxted, Surrey. (www.turnstyles.co.uk/) This soccer themes barbershop is kinda dope really especially if you are a fan of football. It is kind of like Sports Clips here in the US except for it revolves around the sport of soccer and it seems like they people that work that actually cut hair. (just call it like I see it). Just watch it for yourself and enjoy.



World Cup has come to an end but if you missed the next couple of videos courtesy of Adidas All I am going to say is as a barber I really like these videos!!

It all takes time...

So last Saturday I started at M&M Barbershop out in north Fresno...Three chair shop father and son and then there is me! Two days a week may not sound like a lot but for me right now it is a good start. It lets me get my hands back in practice and almost learning over again....and that's good for me.

In a couple of weeks I am joining my buddy Luis at the Fresno Tattoo Expo where I will hope to have product from Both High Life Pomade and Lucky-13 Barber Supply. This weekend will be held May 1st and 2nd.